Desi Flavours at Mt.Titlis

Located in central Switzerland and considered to be the highest excursion peak offering the best 360 degree view of snow clad mountain ranges, Mt. Titlis is one of the most popular destinations among Indians visiting Switzerland. This was amply clear to us when we were there last October.  We took a train up to Engelberg, a picturesque village from where one can take a cable car to reach Mt. Titlis. The huge hoarding meant for welcoming guests just outside the cable car station included ‘Swagatam’ on one side and ‘Alvida’ on the other side along with other languages. The first cable car we took was a small one that could accommodate four persons. When we started the ascent, we could barely see the peak as it was covered with thick low lying clouds but within a minute the car took us high above the clouds from where we got a great view of Engelberg. Amidst the absolute stillness we could clearly hear the non-stop ringing of the cow bells from the meadows below.

After reaching Trubsee, we got into a larger rotating cable car called Rotair which took us all the way up to Mt. Titlis, which is located over 3000 metres above sea level. Inside the walls of the Rotair, we found information provided in Hindi along with other languages. Just shows that they are catering to the needs of tourists from India, we thought. 

When we reached Mt. Titlis, we were surprised to see a huge cut-out of Shahrukh Khan and Kajol from DDLJ right next to a cutout of faceless skiers meant for visitors to peep through, pose and take pictures. We had no clue what the display of Bollywood stars in their Bhangra pose was meant to serve on top of Mt Titlis. But there it was, amusing all visiting Indians and puzzling others who had no clue about the characters on display. 

DDLJ on Mt. Titlis

The summit was covered with thick snow. From the top, we could see the Alp ranges, glacier caves and an interesting structure that resembled a sitting Buddha. This was discovered by a Chinese gymnast just before he won an Olympic medal in 1996. After taking loads of pictures and trying all stunts in the snow, we went indoors to see a film about Mt. Titlis and eat the local Mövenpick chocolate ice-cream. We got into the Rotair, then again in the small cable car, descending through the clouds, hearing the cow bells and finally landing back at Engelberg. 

We were in for another desi jolt. This time a mobile food joint serving vada pav, pav-bhaji, samosa, idli-chutney, gajar halwa and masala chai! As the only food joint serving hot food at the foothills of Mt.Titlis, it was doing good business and we were really impressed. The weather was just right to indulge in the spicy chaats and top it up with masala chai.

Hot desi snacks at foothills of Mt. Titlis

Our trip to Mt Titlis had given us a taste of Indianisation of Swiss tourism and we were really tickled by it. A few months ago, we read that the Swiss are trying to increase inflow of Indian tourists by 25% this year. What more can they offer to make Indians feel at home – an autorickshaw ride around Engelberg or ice-gola as an addition to the Mövenpick range?

Sinful yet Divine!

The first time I had a cheese fondue in an authentic style was at Fribourg, Switzerland. Last January, when I was at the University of Fribourg for a lecture, the students planned to go out in the evening for a fondue and I gladly joined in with the other faculty. I don’t think most of us were particularly in need of building excess fat or carb reserves, given that academic life is generally sedentary. One of the women colleagues accompanying us confessed that she treated herself to cheese fondue only on the weekends after cycling up the hills and only after building up a serious appetite. Generally, the Swiss people are known to claim their right to eat a fondue only after first exhausting their body reserves through some serious physical exercise. And here I was, sitting at the table waiting for the fondue to arrive – having done no physical exercise in the past couple of days and without any intention of doing so over the next two days given the snowfall outside. 

Sculpture with Swiss products

Enjoying the fondue

The restaurant was one of the best ones serving fondue and had some interesting sculptures made out of Swiss products-like knives, sewing machines, special pots and pans etc. Soon the special cutlery was laid out and a portable stove with a pot of molten cheese was kept in such a way that two people could share from a single pot. One had to stir the cheese continuously to prevent it from sticking to the bottom and getting burnt. Pieces of bread or whole small boiled potatoes are dipped in the molten cheese and eaten immediately. I was told to opt for potatoes instead of bread as bread tends to absorb more cheese and gets heavy. I found there was a gender divide with the men going for the bread and women going for potatoes. The fondue was completely divine. The thought that it was absolutely sinful to eat the fondue without earning it perhaps made it more enjoyable. 


I realized that eating fondue is also a social thing-sharing from the same pot of molten cheese brings folks together. There is plenty of light-hearted fun   and competitiveness associated with it like who eats the most or who cleans the pot first. If your bread or potato happens to drown in the molten cheese, you are expected to sing a song. Amazing how sharing a hearty meal together can melt down boundaries!